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www.skg.fi • katso viestiketjua - Maalaustekniikka
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Maalaustekniikka

ViestiLähetetty: 06.09.2013 17:22
Kirjoittaja veskola
Kimmo, sinähän olet , tämänkin alan, ammattilainen niin pitääkö happopohjamaalikerroksen olla vain ohut huntu vai vedetäänkö sitä monta kerrosta ? 2k tai 1K maalin ollessa kyseessä ? Se olen huomannut, että se eka kerros kannattaa vetää ihan ohkanen huntu.

Re: Maalaustekniikka

ViestiLähetetty: 06.09.2013 21:08
Kirjoittaja kimmo l
En minä muista tai muistan kyllä....

Jos vedät ns.rundia, siis 2k happoväriä ei sitä tarvii kuin pierunkuori, siis ihan valuttamatta yks kerros. ja rundin päälle ei voi kitata.

Jos tehdään silleen oikenoppikeeksi niin happoväri ................ jokin semmoinen 2k-pohjamaali minkä päälle voi kitata..............2k-pohjamaali ja sitten pinta joko sealerilla tai ilaman... siis ei pintamaalia kitin päälle.

yleensä tapana on tehdä puhdaspelti................kitti.............happoväri/filleri ja pinta..

tuohon vaikuttaa niin moni asia , että vaikea sano juuta tai jaata... esim: jenkit: ovat thermoplastisella maalilla vedetty ( useimmat ) , ja ne ei kestä kittiä sitten ollenkaan. kiehuu kuin perupata. siksi jenkin maalaminen on yleensa kalliimpaa...

Mutta jos et haluu vetää tätä 2k pohjamaalia josa ruosteenesto ominaisuudet niin , epoksi. sen päälle voi vetää kittiä ja jatkaa siitä ihan perinteisellä...

Toi käytössä oleva muovikitti ( plastig padding ) on huokoista se imee kaiken itseensä. siksi yleensä se pitää eristää ja hioa aika hienolla , että ei jää pinnnan alle naarmuja..

Tämä aihe on saakelin vaikea selittää.... mutta jos teet märsya , niin osta teollisuusmaalia , ihan epoksia 2k ( pohja ) 10l purkki. ja vetelet sitä aina kun teet jotain, sen päälle voi vetää kittiä ja toimii ruosteenestona.. :icon_thumright:

saitkohan mitään selvää. itse olen ihan selvä!

Re: Maalaustekniikka

ViestiLähetetty: 06.09.2013 22:37
Kirjoittaja veskola
Kyllä tuo epoksin hyvyys on tiedossa ja sitähän käytettiinkin, mutta haluan vältellä sitä aina välillä kun pienten korjusten suihkiminen pienellä ruiskulla on olevinaan helpompaa happomaaleilla, ne kun on jotenkin luonnostaan semmosia pienelle ruiskulle soveliaampia, varsinkin jos on 1K niin ei tarvitse läträtä

Pirullista tuo koko maalaussessio, kun jos on korjannut ja maalannut jonkin kohdan 2-5 viikkoa sitten ja pitää siitä vierestä vetää pellille pieni alue, no sitten kun maalaa happomaalilla ja jos sitä menee edellisen maalin päälle niin saadaan riisipuuroa.

Re: Maalaustekniikka

ViestiLähetetty: 07.09.2013 17:20
Kirjoittaja veskola
Kaapissa oli puolikas 2,5 litran pänikkä akryylihiontamaalia, sellaista 2K versiota. Tämä tuote: http://www.automaalit.net/epages/Gagar. ... tonfilleri
Sen kovete oli mennyt huonoksi, mutta nyt kokeilen kovettuuko se alkrylimaalin kovetteella, jota myös oli hyllyllä avattu paketti: http://www.automaalit.net/Kovete-HS25. Kun minun maalaisjärjellä ajateltuna pitäisi kovettua.

Mipan HS10 kovete on on tarkoitettu käytettäväksi HS-akryylimaalien ja lakkojen kanssa. Sopii erittäin hyvin paikkamaalaustöihin sekä pienempien pintojen maalaukseen.

Mikäli testipläntit eri tyyppisten maalien päälle antavat positiivisen tuloksen niin sitten suihkin tuolla nuo helmat. Vähän paskaa tämä homma kun pitää käyttää 2-3 vuotta vanhoja maalipurkin pohjia :D

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